Hillside Paths and Cats in Onomichi

Step out of Onomichi Station and the sea stretches out right in front of you. The Onomichi Channel separating the mainland from Mukaishima is narrow enough to see the shipyards on the opposite shore in detail. Walk a short way along the waterfront shopping arcade, then turn onto the path leading up to Senkoji Temple.

It's less of a slope and more a series of stone stairways. Steps thread between houses, and turning around midway reveals rooftops giving way to the sea beyond. Cats sunning themselves on walls are a frequent sight. Accustomed to people, they don't flinch even when you point a camera.

The view from Senkoji Park is the finest in Onomichi. The bridges of the Shimanami Kaido fade into the haze in the distance, and temple rooftops overlap below. For the descent, skip the ropeway and take a different path down. Each alley has its own character, and getting a little lost is part of the fun in this town.